by Michael Pollan
Food. There's plenty of it around, and we all love to eat it. So why should anyone need to defend it?
Because
most of what we're consuming today is not food, and how we're consuming
it -- in the car, in front of the TV, and increasingly alone -- is not
really eating. Instead of food, we're consuming "edible foodlike
substances" -- no longer the products of nature but of food science.
Many of them come packaged with health claims that should be our first
clue they are anything but healthy. In the so-called Western diet, food
has been replaced by nutrients, and common sense by confusion. The
result is what Michael Pollan calls the American paradox: The more we
worry about nutrition, the less healthy we seem to become.
But
if real food -- the sort of food our great grandmothers would recognize
as food -- stands in need of defense, from whom does it need defending?
From the food industry on one side and nutritional science on the
other. Both stand to gain much from widespread confusion about what to
eat, a question that for most of human history people have been able to
answer without expert help. Yet the professionalization of eating has
failed to make Americans healthier. Thirty years of official
nutritional advice has only made us sicker and fatter while ruining
countless numbers of meals.
Pollan proposes a new (and very
old) answer to the question of what we should eat that comes down to
seven simple but liberating words: Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.
By urging us to once again eat food, he challenges the prevailing
nutrient-by-nutrient approach -- what he calls nutritionism -- and
proposes an alternative way of eating that is informed by the
traditions and ecology of real, well-grown, unprocessed food. Our
personal health, he argues, cannot be divorced from the health of the
food chains of which we are part.
In Defense of Food
shows us how, despite the daunting dietary landscape Americans confront
in the modern supermarket, we can escape the Western diet and, by doing
so, most of the chronic diseases that diet causes. We can relearn which
foods are healthy, develop simple ways to moderate our appetites, and
return eating to its proper context -- out of the car and back to the
table. Michael Pollan's bracing and eloquent manifesto shows us how we
can start making thoughtful food choices that will enrich our lives,
enlarge our sense of what it means to be healthy, and bring pleasure
back to eating.
Pollan's last book, The Omnivore's Dilemma, launched a national conversation about the American way of eating; now In Defense of Food shows us how to change it, one meal at a time.
Read the introduction to
In Defense of Food (PDF)